Rocks Out of Water

Evident in our lack of posts over the past month and a half, Tim and I have been neglecting the blog. The one excuse we both have is that we were in the states during September, doing the cross-country tour. We touched all four corners of the U.S.; Miami, Seattle, L.A., and Philadelphia. Though we are exhausted, we had a great time visiting friends and family!

Here are a few pictures from our time at home.

Karen and Tim at my parents house enjoying some brother sister bonding.

We went to a dodgers game while we were in L.A. They lost 3-11, but we were in good company! The Dodgers still managed to snag the wild card for a spot in the playoffs. The big disappointment is that we cannot find an English station broadcasting the game on our new short wave radio. We found one in Spanish - too bad we didn’t learn more Spanish while in the Dominican Republic.

Erik, Sarah, Tim, and Leah standing inside the newly opened Ten Thousand Villages store in Pasadena. We finally saw first hand the beautiful store and the fruit of everyone’s hard work.

The Beyond Borders annual meeting in West Chester, PA. We had over 70 people attend this year, a new record.

Fremy, Tim, and Anna setting up at the CCDA conference in Philadelphia.

On a warm starlit evening this past May, thirteen Beyond Borders Transformational Travel participants sat with over three hundred members of Meno, a rural mountain community outside the city of Jacmel, Haiti. For the past three days our lives had intersected with our Haitian hosts as we learned about the daily realities of their village. With our time together coming to a close, we had gathered to say goodbye.

That night our closing circle came to life with stories of the past few days, jokes and riddles, singing and dancing, and the sharing of a meal, which we prepared together. As the night concluded one of our hosts, an older Haitian gentleman, rose to speak. “Since my childhood I have made the trip down to the city many times. I have seen foreigners drive by in their cars and walk past on the street, but never could I have imagined they would one day come to my home, take interest in my work as a farmer, share a meal with me, ask my opinion, and sleep under my tin roof. We know it is not an easy journey for you to come here, but thank you for your presence.” After he was seated one of the Transformational Travel participants stood-up, “Many of my friends and family told me I was crazy for traveling to Haiti, and after reading the news coming out of your country the past few weeks, I wondered if they might be right. However, from the instant I arrived here I have felt safe and well taken care of. I am in amazement of all I have learned from you this week about hospitality, community, and joy. I will carry these lessons with me for many years to come.”

In a country such as Haiti, where many of its citizens struggle daily to survive, moments like these can seem futile, but they can be transformative for all involved. For some of our North American participants a trip to Haiti confirms that those from different cultures and economic status can find common ground and share moments of genuine exchange. For them it is another step in a life lived as agents of peace and justice. For others, their time in Haiti is a starting point, a time of new questions, a moment of clarity where they begin see how their existence is deeply intertwined with those whose lives are lived worlds away from their own. For our Haitian hosts, their lives–often deemed backward by much of the world–are validated with the worth and respect due to all people. They see in tangible ways that the world has not forgotten about them or their struggles.

For us, these shared encounters between Haitians and Americans through the Transformational Travel and Apprenticeship in Shared Living programs are glimpses of God’s Kingdom on Earth. Statistics of poverty and wealth meet each other as strangers and become acquaintances, friends, and neighbors. These moments of reconciliation have shown us how the typical reactions of suspicion and fear can be transformed into another way of seeing, filled with hope, love, and joy. We feel privileged to be present as stereotypes are broken-down and Haitians and North Americans are able to stand alongside one another with respect.

This year:
Tim will continue coordinating Beyond Borders Transformational Travel (TT) and the Apprenticeship in Shared Living (ASL) programs.

TT - We currently have 3 groups scheduled for the coming year, but are looking to add an additional 2 more. Two of our groups are open to individuals or couples unaffiliated with a larger group. If you are interested in visiting Haiti, or would like to bring your own group of 6-9 people, email Tim (tmurphy@beyondborders.net).
ASL - Beginning in mid October two new apprentices, Cara Kennedy and Kim Montroll, will be joining us in Haiti.

Leah will continue her apprenticeship in rural Haiti through the fall. With the help of her host family, the Sen Jean’s, she has made great strides in her understanding of Creole and Haitian culture. Over the next few months she will begin exploring ways to use her training as a dietitian.

Needs for the upcoming year:
A big thank you to those who helped us reach our financial goal last year. This year we have committed to raise $18,000. This includes our living stipend and a portion of our program costs. If you are interested in making a tax deductible donation toward our work please make your check payable to Beyond Borders, Attention Tim & Leah Murphy, and mail it to:

Beyond Borders
P.O. Box 2132
Norristown, PA 19404

Or, if you would like to make a donation online visit www.beyondborders.net.

*All money given in our name goes toward our programs. Extra gifts above and beyond what we are committed to raise will be saved and carried over into the next fiscal year.

With gratitude, we thank you for your interest and support of our work.
Sincerely,
Tim & Leah Murphy

Tim and I both enjoy Haitian proverbs and this one, don’t buy a cat in a bag, which we heard this morning, made us laugh. It basically means don’t agree to anything before first knowing or seeing what you are getting. Ah, what truth there is to this, especially here in Haiti.

Take for example the stove we recently bought, which arrived from Port-au-Prince, the capital city, on Thursday. A trusted friend helped us make the purchase so we weren’t worried about what we were to receive, but after a month of waiting for it, were slightly disappointed when we finally laid eyes on it. It’s a bit flimsy, has a slight tilt to it, and is connected to the gas tank with a larger-than-it-should-be clear hose, which is obviously not a gas hose. When we showed the contraption to our good Haitian friend & neighbor this morning his first comment was, “I can see that a Haitian put this together.”

When looking at the glass half full, you can say it’s remarkable that Haitians can rig almost anything – a broken down vehicle, a bent bed frame, an iron whose cord has been burnt when someone wrapped it around the iron while it was still hot (just to name a few that we’ve already experienced). When we think something is useless or broken, we’ve learned that it really isn’t and have watched in amazement as they “fix” it with whatever materials they find laying around.

When looking at the glass half empty, you can say that over 75% of the stuff they rig isn’t safe at all. We share the iron, whose cord has been burnt and split, with our Haitian friend and haven’t used it for weeks. Who knows when it’s finally going to shock someone.

So, to reassure all you worried readers (especially our parents) who fear for our safety, we try to avoid rigged Haitian appliances, but solely take part as spectators for the hours of entertainment it can provide. We are going to buy another iron and will have the gas tank refitted with the proper hose.

Haiti is the poorest country in the western hemisphere.
Unemployment is reported at around 70%.
Three-quarters of the population survive on less than $2 U.S. a day.
Life expectancy is 53 years of age.
Half the population lives below the minimum level of dietary energy consumption.
5% of the population has HIV or Aids.
Source: International Monetary Fund

When I use to read these statistics I’d give each one about 10 seconds of thought before moving on to the next devastating, but equally incomprehensible statement. After living in Haiti for 3 months these once empty calculations invoke this sinking sorrow deep within me as they no longer represent statistics, but neighbors and friends.

Take for example my neighbors, the Jowanes family, who by my calculations live on about 6 U.S. dollars a week, all coming from the sells of akansann – a corn derivative that is eaten with sugar or blended with milk to make a thick, filling drink. One day I spent the afternoon with Madam Jowanes while she was making akansann and I realized how much misery she passes for just a few dollars. Early in the morning she treks down the mountain and then back up to fetch a huge bundle of plantain leaves which she will later cook and finally use as packaging to hold the akansann – I have to say, a very environmentally friendly, cost free solution to plastic!

After the plantain leaves are cooked, she sets them aside and places water and cinnamon in the biggest cooking pot I have ever seen. (Tim likes to joke that you could bath inside.) When the water has boiled, she places a mixture of water and finely ground corn flour into the pot, which was ground by hand by her husband the night before. This huge mixture boils for about an hour and when it’s cooked she begins the tedious 4 to 5 hour task of wrapping tiny portions of akansann with cooked plantain leaves that she will sell the following day. By the time she is finished, the sun has set, her kids are hungry, and she is exhausted from a long days work.

She will rise early the next morning, descend the mountain, and wait for an over crowded pick up truck, filled with other merchants like herself, to take her to the city of Jacmel. After spending the whole day walking the hot dusty streets with a load of akansann perched on her head, searching for buyers who will take 3 small pouches for 1 Haitian dollar, she heads back home with 40 Haitian dollars (about $5 U.S.). When supplies and transportation are subtracted out she has made just 16 Haitian dollars or $2 U.S.

If not sick herself, or taking care of one of her five kids who have come down with “the fever”, the generalized statement most everyone makes when someone is sick, Madam Jowanes will make akansann every Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, and sell in the city every Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday. Sundays are reserved for church and washing, the grueling struggle to survive rarely provides times to rest.

Madam Jowanes expressed to me that she would like to do something else, perhaps buy rice, beans, or pepe (used clothing from the United States) in bulk and resell it in the market, but does not have the cash to invest into the initial purchase. All of the money she makes is immediately spent on food, school for the kids, or the occasional medication for their youngest daughter who has had medical problems since birth and is extremely malnourished. She is over one year old and has yet to take her first step.

The Jowanes family is just one of my many new friends that have helped me better understand poverty statistics. Now when I read that unemployment is at 70%, I think of a friend’s brother who yesterday asked Tim if he had any work as a chauffeur because he hates just sitting around. When I hear that life expectancy is 53 years of age, I think about one of my host sisters who at the age of 25 lost her first husband. When someone says that half the population lives below the minimum level of dietary consumption I think of the little neighbor kids, with discolored hair, who could pass for half their age.

As I put names and faces to such an inhumane life my heart is breaking and though it is an extremely uncomfortable process I am thankful that statistics such as those listed above on Haiti invoke thoughts of friends, people just like you and me, who’s only hope is for the pains of hunger to be satisfied, education for their children, health care, jobs – the ability to simply live.

The simple words of this Haitian proverb have come to life for us over the past month. As we split out time between the city of Jacmel and our Haitian home in the rural community of Meno, we’ve had many opportunities to see how food is distributed. Our host mother in Meno, Madam St. John, constantly amazes us with her generosity. Each day, after she feeds us and her family of seven, we watch her hand out small plates of food to the neighbor kids. Sometimes we feel like were watching food being magically multiplied, because no matter how many people are at the house she always has something for everyone, deliberately adjusting the portions to make a plate for all.

In a country where most know the pains of hunger all to well, and families never know if they will have the means to eat the next day, it’s remarkable to watch our friends share instead of hoard. In fact, they are teaching us to live better in community while helping us to laying aside our greedy individualist tendencies. This week we found ourselves in the food distribution role while making delicious Haitian hot chocolate. Our first instinct was to put aside 2 heaping glasses for ourselves before allocating the rest. Yet, in a subtle way our Haitian friend reminded us, before we had the chance to embarrass ourselves, that our first priority was to share with our neighbors. It is times like this we realize that we have a lot to learn!

As if living in the Caribbean was not hot enough, I came down with Malaria this week. We caught it right away, but it still included a significant rise in body temperature that put me up for 4 days. I am just about recovered but a bit weak and a few pounds lighter. On the bright side I did loose the spare tire I was carrying around my waist. This is my second bout with malaria–I had it once before when I lived in Haiti in 2001. By far the most memorable part about malaria is the medicated dreams. Just last night I had the chance to visit a number of distant lands, and even got the opportunity see some of you who I have not seen in a long time.

I undoubtedly contracted my illness last week while with a Transformational Travel group in O Cayes–a town known for being overrun with mosquitoes. We had a youth group here visiting from Bowling Green Kentucky, the 6 kids and 4 leaders had an enjoyable visit, experiencing some daily activities of Haitian life…milking cows, grafting fruit trees, and handing out report cards at a local school.

On Friday, June 16th, TenThousandVillages of Pasadena officially opened its doors for business. While the grand opening is still a few weeks away we congratulate all who have given their time and talents to make the project a reality. If you are in the So. Cal. area be sure to stop by and visit…and of course make a purchase. Below are a few photos of the store, located on 496 South Lake Street, Pasadena, CA 91101. (Click on them for a larger view.)

After 3 months of searching in the Dominican Republic we were unable to find a stable living situation, and now, here in Haiti, we have 2! Since we’ve arrived in Haiti at the end of April many doors have opened for us. I am convinced that this is where we are supposed to be.

A few days ago we secured a 1-year lease on a room we’re renting in Jacmel, conveniently located close to the Beyond Borders office. We actually have 2 rooms, which are connected (Perfect for receiving visitors.). Yesterday, after a few previous visits to a rural community about an hour and a half outside of the city, we found a very nice family willing to host us. The plan is to split our time between the rural community, Meno, so I can continue to improve my creole and get a better understanding of Haitian culture, and Jacmel, where Tim can work in the office.

Yesterday I visited Meno for the second time, and though it’s much different that I imagined, I think it will be a good fit for us. We will be living at the top of a mòn, a mountain. To put it into perspective, after a 25 minute car ride we will walk an hour and a half, up-hill, to reach our host family’s home. Though it is a long walk, best done in the morning before the sun sucks you dry, it is worth every step.

The people of Meno are incredibly friendly and hospitable. We surprised the community with a visit on Tuesday and instead of the customary offer to drink heavily sugared coffee, often all that most families can offer, we were invited to spend the day with them while they cooked us a full meal. Tim previously spent 3 nights in Meno with a Transformational Travel group and marvaled at their hospitality. There might very well be some not-so-friendly people in the community, but as our Haitian colleague says, we have confidence in the people of Meno. We have confidence that living together with them–not to bring aid or pretend like we know how to fix their problems–we will be able to learn from them through experiencing the pains and joys of their daily lives.

Dear Friends,

We’ve been in Haiti for over six weeks and can hardly believe how fast the time has flown by. After some very positive experiences, we hare thrilled to share with you that we have decided to stay in Haiti long-term. Tim will be coordinating two Beyond Borders programs, The Apprenticeship in Shared Living, where North Americans spend a year living with a Haitian family in the rural countryside to learn Creole and Haitian culture, and Transformation Travel, a program where groups of 6-10 North Americans spend a weeks learning about the history, culture, and daily life of Haitians. Leah will be spending much of her time learning Creole in a Haitian community as an Apprentice and will eventually look for ways to integrate her training in nutrition into her experience.

May was an extremely busy month. Besides the rigors of moving and adapting to life in a new culture, we have done a fair amount of traveling, reacquainting with old friends while also making new ones. We are currently living in Jacmel, Haiti’s sixth largest city, on the country’s southern coast. We are renting a room from a family in the city, but hope to move out to the countryside at the end of June in order to continue to work on our Creole and cultural understanding.

We have already had the chance to visit Reno, the community Tim lived in as an apprentice in 2001-2002. His old host family, the Denis, were thrilled to see us again and eager to begin teaching Leah Creole.

We are truly grateful for your continued support, prayers, and encouragement during our transition to Haiti. We both feel a deep peace and excitement about being here, a place that has been on our hearts for years. We look forward to sharing our experiences with you through our blog, and though we weren’t able to write in May, have posted some reflections about some of our experiences in Haiti thus far and will continue to post on a weekly basis.

Sincerely,
Tim & Leah